Since its inception the gun has been copied, licensed and cloned in a number of countries.

The technology has evolved and a host of modern AK variants have been produced in China, Hungary, Israel, Yugoslavia, Bulgaria, Finland and Iraq, just to name a few.

Of all the variations on the theme, perhaps the most sophisticated to emerge out of this evolutionary succession to date is the SIG 550 series.

Recently, On Target’s staff had an opportunity to review a recent example of the Swiss’ engineering efforts, the SIG-USA R556.

We were attracted to the R556-762R-16B model in particular because of the mix of features it offers: a robust, easy-to-maintain, refined Kalashnikov bolt / piston gas system; useful .30 caliber cartridge (7.62×39 Soviet round); easy AR-style push pin disassembly of upper and lower giving clear access to internal parts; use of easily obtained standard AK magazines; and a fixed, robust upper receiver (as opposed to the usual stamped, removable AK receiver cover), that provides a stable platform for the attachment of optics.

Swiss Refinement

Leave it to the Swiss to re-engineer a solid, but by modern standards klunky weapon, and  turn it into one of the most sophisticated AK-inspired rifles on the market.

The R556 model we reviewed was from the “2nd generation”. The most important features of this revision include a more robust, solid, non-adjustable Swiss style folding stock, and a steel insert fitted at the front of the magazine well to accept the front AK magazine-locking lug. This latter refinement is especially important to prevent accelerated wear to the lower aluminum receiver, which was found to happen when using steel AK magazines in the non-reinforced 1st generation version. The date of manufacture listed on the box for our 2nd generation carbine is July 18, 2012.

Our R556 was delivered with a hard plastic piece inserted into the front sight dovetail. We’re not sure why SIG-USA added that bit. Maybe it was an effort to make the carbine look more “finished”? Whatever the reason, we removed it so that we could add folding BUIS.

We selected Samson flip-up sights, since they make a set specifically for the 556. They seem well-made, and attach to the 556R easily, but they do wobble front to back a bit when deployed. This did not seem to affect accuracy out to 50 yds, at least not in our tests. The front and rear sights are spring loaded and pop up automatically at the push of a button, one of which is located at the base of each sight block.

The length of pull with the supplied folding stock was satisfactory for the average sized shooter but proved short for another member of the staff who was 6’1″.The carbine was delivered with a spare buttplate that is meant to allow the user to increase the length of pull as required, but unfortunately the piece will not work with the new stock as fitted.

It was meant for the older model folding stock that is also adjustable for length, but which was replaced by SIG in response to well-deserved criticism of its lack of stability. We could still shoot the R556 fine, but we feel that accuracy and comfort would be enhanced for taller shooters if the carbine were available with a longer stock.

Optics Please

We tested the rifle both with the BUIS and optical sights. (Not all of us have the vision of a 20 year old!).

We chose a Trijicon ACOG for use on the R556; model TA24-4. The cross hairs of our unit are amber, and stand out well in low light conditions. During the day in bright conditions the cross hairs appear black. The optic is 1.5 power, with an objective diameter of 24mm.

The great feature of this optic for us is that it can be used it with our distance glasses. This allows us to keep target and cross hairs in sharp focus while looking through the optic, making accurate sighting much easier. Our ACOG is equipped with the Trijicon special ring mount, which allows the optic to ride low on the rail. This makes a decent cheek weld much easier for us to maintain on the stock of the R556.

Our carbine came supplied with red dot from SIG-USA, but we’ve not taken it out of the box and cannot comment on its function. The magazine that came packed with the carbine is commercial Bulgarian polymer AK, of 30 round capacity. The fit is slightly wobbly from side-to-side, but that doesn’t seem to affect feeding. And it rocks in easily and securely front-to-back.

Feeding and Maintenance

Before taking the SIG to the range for the first time we stripped, cleaned and lubed it. Field stripping is a bit different than an AK, but the procedure is well documented in the supplied manual and is straightforward with no surprises. SIG thought out the maintenance features well. We like the easy access to internals very much.

On our first trip to the range we took along the supplied Bulgarian mag, a 5 round Arsenal mag, and a Hungarian steel 20 round mag. The Hungarian mag locks in with little or no wobble. The Arsenal 5 rounder moves slightly from side to side, but is otherwise firm.

Feeding from all 3 mags was trouble-free, with no stoppages of any kind. We fired 80 rounds at the range, in lots of 5. 5 is the maximum that our range rules will allow to be loaded in a mag at one time, so we could not test the mags at full capacity there.

We sighted in the BUIS at 50 yards, and the ACOG at 100 yds. It was easy to get the carbine on target, as we had done an initial bore sighting with a laser. Firing from a wooden rest on the bench we were able to easily keep our rounds confined to a 4 inch circle using Silver Bear ammo, both using BUIS at 50y ds and the ACOG at 100 yds. We have no doubt that the carbine is capable of better in the hands of a skilled marksman. The SIG ran through all 80 rounds of Silver Bear with no failures of any kind.

We found the R556 to be very pleasant to shoot, with mild recoil. Though it has some muzzle jump, the effect is not overly distracting. Ejection from the R556 is very positive, with cases landing 12-15 feet to the right in the 3:30 position. The trigger has some initial takeup slack, but reaches a distinct stop. Increasing pressure slightly after that drops the hammer. Trigger pull is consistent, smooth, and light. There is no trigger “slap” (an idiosyncrasy of some AK models).

On the next outing we took the R556 to a gravel pit on the Mainland along with the Hungarian 20 round steel mag, a Bulgarian steel-reinforced polymer 30 round mag, a “smooth side” Tapco 30 round polymer mag, and a ribbed Tapco polymer 30 round mag.

Through the course of the day we expended 260 rounds of Silver Bear through the R556, using all of the mags, each mag starting with a full capacity load of 20 or 30 rounds as per capacity. There were no failures to feed or eject with the Hungarian, Bulgarian, or Tapco ribbed mags. With the Tapco “smooth side” mag the carbine would regularly fail to fully chamber a round every 2nd or 3rd cycle. After a few full loads the Tapco “smooth side” mag showed signs of improvement, so maybe it just needs a breaking in period.

Where can I get one?

Overall we were very happy with the 2nd Generation R556. We found it to be compact and easy to maneuver, accurate, a heckuva lot of fun to shoot, and (with the right magazines), monotonously reliable. Takedown and cleaning are easy too. The only things we found awkward were the position of the safety lever, which is hard to reach when the carbine is shouldered in firing position, and the short length of pull, which can be uncomfortable for a tall shooter.

Would we recommend this carbine?

Unequivocally.

Questions?  Comments?  Contact us directly at ontargethawaii@gmail.com

In the next part of this series, conducted at his Kaneohe, Hawaii workshop, Ken provides tips on what to look for when purchasing a knife.

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Q: So let’s talk about how to choose knife. Can you give me some tips?

A: Choose something you feel comfortable with. Something that suits your needs and applications. Something that’s not outside your comfort zone.

Q: What do you mean by ‘comfortable’?

A: There’s 20,000 knife designs out there. Everybody has their own particular application. Their own needs. Buy what makes you feel good. Buy what you like. Buy what suits your daily needs. If you’re not in the bushes all day hacking down lantana, you don’t need a big knife. I notice as I’ve gotten older, I tend to carry a smaller knife. When I was a younger man in the field I’d carry a bigger, beefier knife. Nowadays when I’ve got just about every kind of knife, I’ll carry a knife based on the kind of environment I’m going to be in.

Q: What’s the difference between a lower and higher end knife?

A: You get what you pay for. If you just want a beater because you’re afraid you’re going to lose it or don’t know how to sharpen it, get a cheapo knife. If you want a quality piece it’s going to cost. A lot of people look at a knife in a display cabinet and say they look similar. They ask “How come this one costs $29 and this one costs $200?” Well they can’t see the steel, they can’t see the hardware, they can’t see the precision in it. Good steel costs money. Knives made from cheap steel dull quickly. However some of the higher priced knives, the $200 knives they are made from CPM (Crucible Particle Metallurgy) alloys which is particulate metal, so they will hold an edge much longer. They won’t fail in an emergency situation. The heat treatment is right. The geometry is right. Fit and finish is proper, the hardware, the pivots, the precision are dialed in.

Q: What about choosing a kitchen knife? Any tips on that?

A: Same thing. Remember, if you’re buying a kitchen knife from a drugstore, you’re getting what you pay for. Chances are you’re getting a 420 carbon or lesser grade steel that won’t corrode, but won’t hold an edge either. The higher end kitchen knives cost more because they use a far superior blade steel. The difference is vast. I can buy some of those lesser blank alloys for 80 cents or a dollar a pound whereas a premium blade steel for a kitchen knife may cost me $25 or $30 a pound.

The more expensive steel is going to take twice as long to grind and twice and long to finish because it is a wear resistant powdered metal or nitrogen alloy. However it’s going to perform much better, it’s going to retain an edge much better than a cheaper knife. If you’re bit more discriminating, spend a little more money, at least on the knives you’re going to use every day. Get the best you can afford and the one that feels the best to you.

Q: What particular steels do you like best for wear and durability?

I’ve got a kitchen knife company and we have a nitrogen alloy that I’m really impressed with. It’s a BD1 alloy from a company called Carpenter in Reading, PA. There’s a small firm in Japan called Takefu and they have an alloy called SG2 that is my favorite blade steel for high performance kitchen knives. The downside to that steel is that it’s extremely expensive, something like $140 a pound and it’s very difficult to get. The difference with the nitrogen alloys is that by adding nitrogen to the chromium powders when they make the steel is that it transforms the chromium carbide into a ceramic carbide. Because the chromium carbide grain is so small, it stacks up on a cutting edge really well so that you can maintain super high edge retention much longer than a Vanadium enhanced alloy.

Q: Do you like ceramic knives for anything?

The problem with most ceramic knives is they are thick. You can’t get a thin cross section on a ceramic knife without making it very brittle. They are difficult to sharpen and anyone that says ceramic knives stay sharp forever hasn’t used them. It used to be they had ceramic knives that you’d drop on the floor and they would shatter into a hundred pieces now they are much tougher. They are using zirconium enhanced ceramics and it makes them more durable. But you’ll see they have a shallow grind and they are still thick which makes them more difficult to push through things as you’re cutting. They don’t slide through vegetable or meats like you want them to. The good thing about them is that they won’t tarnish. They are good for some applications.

Q: What new products do you have in the pipeline?

I’m coming up with a new category of knives that are smaller with tactical elements in them. I call them “Gentleman Tacticals” or “Genticals” for short. They have masculine lines and masculine textures to them. They would be a bit smaller than the typical tactical knife. It’s something you could carry in town.

Robert F. Kay is the author of How to Buy an AK-47 which is available on Amazon.

Photos courtesy of On Target staff, Ken Onion and CRKT Knives.

Questions?  Comments?  Contact us at ontargethawaii@gmail.com

Mr. LaPierre, it’s time to dump Ted Nugent from your board. It’s been about a week since his recent Jew-baiting Facebook post reared its ugly head. That’s a week too long.

If you’ve not seen it Nugent’s post, titled “So Who Is Really Behind Gun Control?”, it has a dozen thumbnail photos of prominent American Jews all stamped with an Israeli flag. One of them, which features former New York Mayor Michael Bloomberg is captioned “Jew York City Mayor” and “911 Israeli Agent”. (See Nugent post at the bottom of this page).

As if the sophomoric slurs aren’t enough, Ted seems to be suggesting Mr. Bloomberg is a Zionist “agent” behind 9/11.  (Does Ted really think the former Mayor New York was involved in destroying his own city?)

“Know these punks,” wrote Nugent in his post. “They hate freedom, they hate good over evil…tell every1 (sic) you know how evil they are.”

So what was your response to Ted’s vile display of scapegoating?

Nothing. Not a peep. Your spokesperson said “individual board members do not speak for the NRA.”

Well, guess what, they do speak for the NRA. In Ted’s own words, “I am the NRA”. He’s one of your directors. Whether you like it or not, he is speaking for you.

Do you think any public company or nonprofit worthy of its name would put up with this kind of behavior?

As an NRA member I’m mortified and puzzled.

Mr. Nugent is a gift from heaven to the “liberal” press by presenting the perfect caricature of a gun owner—white, foul mouthed, bigoted and yes, even a card carrying, board member of the NRA.

Of course Mr. LaPierre, I understand you have a sense of loyalty. Ted has been a board member for a long time. However, it’s evident he’s a certified wackjob and a bonafide bigot.

With bedfellows like Ted on your board do you expect mainstream America to take the NRA seriously? Do you really believe retaining Ted as a director is going to help the cause of gun owners?

In fact, Ted’s insipid grandstanding is pitting more people, who might be sympathetic to the NRA, against us.

Furthermore, for the NRA to survive, it needs to recruit more people of color and of all ethnicities. Do you think the invective that Mr. Nugent is spewing will endear the NRA to Jews, Asians and African American gun owners?

Do you think any thoughtful person will have anything but contempt for Mr. Nugent?

You should have dumped him immediately, following the day he posted those despicable comments.

Mr LaPierre, you need to do the right thing. You should make an unambiguous statement discrediting Nugent and dumping him from your board immediately.

I’m trusting that you will make the right decision.

Above photos courtesy of Wikipedia.

Nugent Facebook post:

Call it shameless promotion, but I thought it only appropriate to discuss why I took the trouble to write this book.

I had never intended to write a book about how to buy an AK-47. The best laid plans, as everyone knows, are always subject to change. As I shopped around for an AK, I became acutely aware of how different an animal it was from other rifles. Finding good advice on this iconic weapon was hard to come by, which made the task of choosing the right one downright confusing.

That’s why I spoke to some of the most knowledgeable people in the industry—builders such as Marc Krebs, Jim Fuller and Chase Sisgold. I also interviewed bloggers who know the gun inside out—guys like Larry Vickers, Rob Ski, Mrgunsngear and Tim Harmsen, just to name a few. Finally, I spoke to experts who understood the ins and outs of adding third party parts. Guys like Tim Yan (who knows his way around optics) and Graham Baates (who understands muzzle brakes and a whole lot more).

I needed to speak to the pros because of the challenges of determining how to buy the best AK for your own needs.

Whether I was inspecting rifles at a neighborhood dealer or an online auction site, it occurred to me that choosing an AK is a bit like walking through a house of mirrors. Regardless of price, to the untrained eye, they all looked the same.

What I came to discover was that trying to assess the merchandise superficially was an exercise in futility. I found out that you need to know what’s under the hood. Unless you’re intimately familiar with the individual manufacturer and the provenance of the parts, you don’t know what you’re getting.

Even Amazon.com didn’t help my research at all. There were some books on AKs listed, but they were either highly technical or devoted to the history of the rifle. Elsewhere online, objective information was also in short supply. The forums were too esoteric and while there were a few websites with good data, they were few and far between.

A comprehensive AK buyer’s guide simply didn’t exist, so I figured I’d write one.

As a discerning buyer, I needed to understand some basics. These included:

• The differences between a $600, $1200 and a $2000 rifle.
• Which AK manufacturers offer the best bang for the buck.
• Whether to buy online or from a local dealer.
• Whether to buy new or used.
• What type of optic to buy and how to mount it.

So…the purpose of this little book is to provide buyers with answers to these queries and much more. In short, my objective is to de-mystify the process of purchasing an AK.

In addition to the basic questions that revolve around choosing the right gun, How to Buy an AK-47 also offers ideas on customizing your AK with aftermarket parts such as stocks, folders, grips, rails, etc. Many of these suggestions come from my own product reviews but most advice is garnered from professional gunsmiths and trainers—the folks I mentioned at the beginning of this article. The people who design, build and operate Kalashnikov-style rifles for a living.

I believe the book will be valuable to people who both have experience with firearms or complete neophytes.

Rob Kay writes about firearms for Hawaii Reporter and is the author of How to Buy an AK-47.

Photos by Rob Kay.

Questions?  Comments?  Contact us at ontargethawaii@gmail.com

When it comes to adding handguards and other accessories, less can be more. Like many first-time AK buyers, when I got my rifle I started adding third-party parts and went overboard on the “tacticool.” This included items such as a full-length hand guard, optics, fore grips, scope mounts and the like. Before I knew it, I was drowning in paraphernalia.

The lesson was that adding some of these components may make sense in some circumstances, such as home defense, but you need to be wary of “mission creep”. Loading up your rifle with gewgaws has its practical limits. For example if you’re going to be proficient at shooting offhand, shouldering a 10-pound rifle gets old very quickly.

(My epiphany is hardly original. One of Larry Vickers’ maxims is “seriously resist the urge to over-accessorize the gun”.)

Given my own experience, I’ve become a proponent of minimalism.

Custom builders such as Rifle Dynamics, Krebs Custom, Definitive Arms and others strive to keep the weight down by using a combination of polymer furniture (often from Arsenal) and in some instances, even chopping the barrel two inches.

Jim Fuller of Rifle Dynamics takes the weight reduction process a step further by employing the Bolton Gas Block, a proprietary product manufactured by Venom Tactical.

This cleverly designed product is the latest incarnation of a technology used by the Israeli Galil, the Finnish Valmet RK62 and other rifles, combines both the front sight and gas block into a single weight-saving assembly.

By placing the front sight atop the gas block, the barrel length can be shortened. With the proprietary gas block and a shortened barrel, he can take off as much as a pound from the front end. It doesn’t sound like a lot but in practice it’s very significant.

If you’re going to use an optic on your minimalist rifle, there are other ways to keep the weight down. The $98 UltiMAK M1-B optic mount integrates both the hand guard and the gas tube in its design which ends up adding less than an ounce to the rifle.

You can get also a wide variety of lightweight polymer hand guard sets from K-Var.

KeyMod hand guards, such as the AK-UFM model for AKM rifles manufactured by Krebs Custom, are made from aircraft aluminum and they are really light. At 6.6 ounces (including the Picatinny rail) it definitely falls into the “minimalist” camp.

Another weight saving measure is to change out your buttstock if you’re using a collapsible, AR 15-style system. There are a number of lightweight units available including the Rogers Super-Stoc, the Mission First Tactical “Minimalist” model and the CTR from Magpul.

The lesson is to think twice before you buying add-ons, such as a full-blown tactical hand guard/rail system. If you can eschew adding stuff that you don’t really need, or replace your existing gear with something lighter, by all means do so.

With AKs less is usually more.

Photos by Rob Kay

by Rob Kay 

It goes without saying that most AK owners will customize their rifles in one way or another. Adding an AR 15-style buttstock to your Kalashnikov-style rifle is a very popular exercise for users who want the flexibility of a collapsible system and/or are adding a folder.

So how do you choose the right one?

When selecting a buttstock, there are two main points to consider: comfort and weight.

With this in mind, we looked at five different popular options that we think will work splendidly with your AK.

Magpul CTR

It’s become de rigueur for Magpul to be everybody’s go-to furniture. When it comes to AKs, the CTR (compact/type restricted) buttstock is a very popular option. No wonder. It’s very solid and looks good. There’s no irritating wobble that less well-engineered stocks exhibit, and it provides a good cheek weld.

The A-frame design will help you avoid snags, and the release latch, which is shielded, is a great feature. I had no accidental release-latch encounters and the friction lock ensured a rattle-free experience.

The CTR Mil-Spec model I reviewed comes with a removable 0.30-inch rubber butt pad. CTR has a larger butt pad available, if that’s what you need, but I don’t think this will be a problem, even with a 7.62x39mm AK.

If your goal is to find a reasonably priced, comfortable, well-constructed buttstock, then it’s hard to argue against considering a CTR, which weighs in at 252 grams.

The manufacturer’s suggested retail price is around $80, and you can get it on sale for as low as $60. Not a bad deal. As they used to say, “No one ever got fired buying IBM.” You could say the same about Magpul.

Rogers Super-Stoc

The Rogers Super-Stoc may not be as popular as other brands, but that shouldn’t stop you from giving it consideration. It’s strong, lightweight, and sports a patented “Cam-Lock” system that is designed to remove excessive play, which is all too often found on collapsible stocks.

It has a removable recoil pad, sling loop, quick detach sling swivel mount and quick release lever, which unlocks the Cam-Lock and indexing pin with one motion.

It’s also got an innovative one-size-fits-all feature — it will accommodate both Mil-Spec and commercial buffer tubes. You’d think other manufacturers might have figured this one out. But you’d be wrong.

Rogers has hit upon a product that occupies a sweet spot in the buttstock spectrum. It’s a good-quality offering that’s going to appeal to competitive shooters and range rats while occupying an affordable niche at $75.

When I first took the stock out of the box, the first word to jump into my mind was “minimalist.” It reminded me of a fish skeleton. Not an ounce of fat on this baby.

It’s comfortable, though, and the butt pad provides for an ergonomic fit on the shoulder.

The tolerance on the buffer tube is super snug. Even if the Cam-Lock is not cinched down, it’s tight. The Cam-Lock on the Super-Stoc is reminiscent of the CTR design, which also has a front-locking lever. However, the Super-Stoc is engineered differently and, perhaps, even better.

The CTR utilizes a front-locking lever that secures the quick release lever. However, the Super-Stoc’s front Cam-Lock lever serves as an additional point of contact to lock down the stock to the rifle, making the connection even stronger.

I also liked the Cam-Lock lever’s ambidextrous capabilities. It comes stock on the right-hand side but, if you want to reverse sides, it’s easy to swap out.

It’s also very durable, performing admirably in a “Military Times” review called “Buttstock Bashfest.”

The only thing it doesn’t have is as much real estate as some of the others for cheek-weld purposes, but there’s certainly enough to make it work.

This product is used by Colt on some of its government-issue rifles.

At 186 grams, it’s tied for No. 1, as least heavy.

Vltor EMOD A5

Vltor makes excellent products and its EMod “A5” Combo Kit is no exception. It consists of a receiver extension, A5 mid-length buffer (standard weight), M16A2/A5 Action Spring, receiver end lock, and receiver end-lock nut plate.

I wanted a comfortable piece of furniture for precision shooting that could provide an ergonomically correct cheek weld for around $200. Having compartments that could secure ear plugs, batteries and the like was cool, but the paramount goal was comfort and utility.

The stock bears a striking similarity to the Lewis Machine Tool (LMT) SOPMOD model (and the B5 System’s clone). Vltor says that the A5 kit is perfect for piston style rifle systems, and it worked well with the AK, which is, indeed, a piston system.

The Vltor website provides a description of the specs that include a longer receiver extension with seven adjustment points and a specially weighted buffer utilizing the M16A2 action spring. I could only find five adjustment positions. (Where did the other two go?)

The EMod is approximately ¾-inch longer than a standard M4 carbine stock. It’s designed it for big people, with long arms in mind.

To move the stock up and down the tube, you need to depress a flat operation paddle with your fingertips. It’s not that sexy or convenient, especially if the tube refuses to budge. I like the friction lock on the Magpul and Rogers stocks much better—they are simply easier to operate.

The good news is that with these tight tolerances, there isn’t a lot of wobble, especially if the stock is slid all the way.

That said, there is a teeny bit of wobble in a fully extended position—more than on the Magpul and Rogers stocks we tested.

The cheek weld is great on this — equivalent to the SOPMOD model from LMT.

The bottom line is, I liked the stock. It’s expensive but has the benefit of extra real estate to place your cheek as well as two tubes for batteries and a tiny, flip-open storage box (suitable for earplugs) and a steel strike plate at the bottom. It was the heaviest, at 391 grams, of all the ones we tested. Price for the buttstock (as opposed to the kit) is $95.

Mission First Tactical Battlelink Minimalist Stock

The Battlelink Minimalist Stock caught my eye because of its light weight and innovative design.

The “Shepard’s Hook” is eye-catching and works quite well with an AK.

At about 185 gr (with the 8 feet of braided paracord) it’s lighter than the Magpul CTR – roughly equivalent to the “super” light Roger’s Super-Stoc.

Mounting it was a bit of task. The spring-loaded pin that frees up the stock to slip in the buffer tube is short and quite stiff. Using your fingers is brutal. Instead, you’ll need a channel lock or the butt end of a spoon to shift the pin far enough to slip the tube in. Once in, there’s no rotation or slippage and no need for a lock, as on the CTR, because the tolerances are so darn close.

The model I acquired, known as the BMSMILNRAT- BMS, has braided paracord strung from the tip of the buttstock to the base. The whole effect reminds me of those triangles we had to deal with in geometry class.

For the record, the woven paracord is officially called a “NEMO Rapid Assault Team Strap or NRAT Strap.”

I must say it looks pretty cool. The strap slightly obstructs the QD mount, but applying a little elbow grease will allow you access.

Mission First Tactical succeeded in building a distinctive, light, aesthetically pleasing product. I was concerned that the Shepard’s Hook would catch on my clothing, but, to date, I’ve yet to catch it on anything.

The top side of the stock has lot of real estate — even more than the Magpul CTR. The only thing I’m not crazy about is the difficulty of putting it on and removing it from the tube. If you’re not planning on swapping it out a great deal, this won’t be an issue.

I suspect you’ll see more of these on AKs as time goes by. MSRP is $84.99 — or $60 without the braided paracord.

LMT SOPMOD

Military-issue gear is by definition, pretty cool. It’s been vetted and battle-tested.

The LMT SOPMOD is no exception. LMT, according to its website, “is the sole provider of the SOPMOD Buttstock to the U.S. Special Ops Command, U.S. Army, U.S. Navy, U.S. Air Force, U.S. Marine Corps and other government agencies and bureaus.”

I decided to look at this buttstock because one of its clones, the B5 Systems SOPMOD, is popular with some of the top AK builders. It occurred to me that it would be better to look at the real deal—the original that the emulations are modeled after.

The stock has a very substantial feel about it. It’s made as one piece, and built like a tank. It has a great cheek weld and two watertight battery-access storage tubes that will keep the interior dry up to 66 feet. (Let’s hope you don’t put yourself in that position!) There’s a substantial rubber butt plate that reduces felt recoil and offers a no-slip surface against clothing, web gear and body armor.

As expected, there are quick-detach sling swivel mounts on either side. Installing the stock was easy and the fit was quite tight. No wobble in the least. The stock looks cool and is ergonomically correct. I can understand why they make clones of this.

If you ditch the storage tubes, which I suggest, you dock another 50 grams, bringing the weight to a very respectable 307 grams. At $200 it’s expensive, but the genuine article.

Rob Kay writes about firearms for On Target Hawaii and is the author of How to Buy an AK-47.

Q: I note that the burn rates of #5 and True Blue are nearly identical. When would you use it vs. #5?

A: True Blue is an unusual powder and one of my favorites. It is the consistency of very fine sand. It is a straight-up powder grain with no deterrents. It burns cleanly because there is nothing else there. True Blue packs very efficiently inside a case which is both good and bad. In high intensity loadings with limited capacity (We’re looking at you, Georg Luger) it makes a hell of a load. In lower pressure cases with huge capacity, 45 Colt leaps to mind, it develops positional issues.

A:  Accurate #2 is a lower density spherical propellant which is a rare duck. Because it is more time consuming to make, our manufacturers were unwilling to open up production slots that could be used for simpler and faster to make products. Now that there is more surplus production, we are finally seeing #2 return to the vendor’s shelves. Accurate #2 is at its best in large cases where case fill is an issue. The .38 Special and .45 Colt are two very good examples. It is also a very good powder for reduced loads in the truly big magnum cases like the .500 Smith and Wesson. We get that call quite a lot. Guys pick up the biggest, loudest pistols and then realize the laws of physics are still in effect and that shooting what amounts to a buffalo rifle in a handgun hurts. Accurate #2 can take away some of that sting.

Q:  Here’s an esoteric question: I’ve used Alliant’s 2400 for shooting cast bullets in my 30-30, will #5 or #7 work? If so, what kind of load do you suggest for a 172 gr. bullet?

 A:  I’ve never heard of this Alliant Company. What do they sell?

Honestly, I always try to steer people away from that route, but they rarely listen. Handloaders are by nature a defiant lot. We have an unusual powder that offers a much better answer for cast bullets in rifle cartridges.

Accurate 5744 is a double-base extruded powder that has high ignition characteristics, low density and reduced positional sensitivity. I’ve included data for your .30-30 so you can see its performance range. (It is a much safer option than using pistol powder in a rifle cartridge for reduced loads).

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Caliber: .30-30 Winchester
Barrel length: 22”
Subsonic
Powder: Accurate – No2®.
Bullet weight: 170 grains.
Subsonic load: 8.0 grains (ca 1095 Fps)

Powder: Accurate – 5744®. (Reduced loads)
Bullet weight: 115 grains.
Low load: 20.0 grains (ca 1750 Fps)
Mid range load: 23.1 grains (ca 2100 Fps)
Maximum load: 26.3 grains (ca 2400 Fps).
Bullet weight: 125 grains.Low load: 16.0 grains (ca 1650 Fps)
Mid range load: 19.5 grains (ca 1975 Fps)
Maximum load: 23.0 grains (ca 2300 Fps).
Bullet weight: 150 grains.
Low load: 14.0 grains (ca 1475 Fps)
Mid range load: 18.3 grains (ca 1850 Fps)
Maximum load: 21.5 grains (ca 2100 Fps).
Bullet weight: 170 grains.
Low load: 13.0 grains (ca 1350 Fps)
Mid range load: 17.0 grains (ca 1650 Fps)
Maximum load: 22.0 grains (ca 2075 Fps).
Bullet weight: 200 grains.
Low load: 12.0 grains (ca 1250 Fps)
Mid range load: 16.0 grains (ca 1590 Fps)
Maximum load: 20.0 grains (ca 1893 Fps).

Q:  Please explain the significance how the position of powder in the cartridge impacts the load?

Charges that only partially fill a case develop different pressures depending on the powders orientation.  Powder oriented toward the bullet produces the least pressure, while powder toward the back, against the primer creates the highest pressure.  The extreme spread can be pretty dramatic. You can get a .38 Special load that is going 750 fps to drop below 500 fps with load of dense powder if it has room to migrate.

Shooters can see this for themselves with a chronograph. The shooter can orient the muzzle down and give the pistol a couple of shakes. Once the powder has been given a chance to migrate, the shooter slowly raises the pistol and then shoots across a chronograph.  The experiment continues by aiming the pistol in the air, again shaking it and then slowly lowering it for another shot over the chrono. The velocity shift shows the effect of powder position on velocity.

This problem isn’t limited to pistols. Shooters that elect to use pistol powders to make reduced loads for their rifles see a variation on this theme: the dreaded ringed chamber.

In this this case the wad or buffer gets the blame.

A shooter develops an unbuffered load using something like Blue Dot, which is very fast and has a lot of room to migrate in a rifle case. Because of the nature of shooting safety, where the muzzle is kept down until the shot is fired, and the fact that most rifles tend to be shot relatively parallel to the ground, most loads tend toward a powder forward position.  Now with their fully developed load in hand, the shooter elects to use a wad to prevent powder migration, forcing it against the primer and into the maximum pressure position.

I’ve had otherwise sane people suggest that the dacron wadding, at the moment the shot was fired, turned into a hardened plastic projectile that then struck the back of the bullet hard enough to expand it and cause a chamber ring.  Nope. That is just silly. What happened was a hand loader made a dangerous choice, using pistol powder in a rifle case, and compounded it by breaking the cardinal rule of hand loading.

If you change a component, go back to the start and work it up again.  Instead, they elected to not develop their load with wadding place and created overpressure because they forced the powder into its maximum pressure position. Just a trigger pull and 200 microseconds later their rifle was ruined.

Q: Would competitors say an IDPA or IPSC or Bullseye be choosing different powders from someone who is simply plinking at the range? Would you recommend the same products as in the previous question?

I would recommend the same powders. I know that the temptation is to go with fast powders because they offer lower charges and a slight reduction in loading costs, but in the end it seems like false economy. Automatics run more smoothly with slower powders, not to mention the velocity or pressure advantages. When it comes to cost, powder is one of the cheaper components. The pistol is the most expensive one, and it is at risk from potential double charges of extremely fast powders.  It is better to get good case fills whether you are plinking or competing in a shooting event.

Q: What are some of the most frequent questions you get from beginners?

A: Beginners are usually careful and cautious. The most common questions we get are usually about component compatibility… “Can I use the data for this 185 grain bullet for the one I’ve got?” type questions. Their main concern is to avoid blowing up (or off) things they are fond of. I admire that. I also think this is why I see so few accidents from beginning hand loaders. Their crimps may be bad, or they have a permanently stuck case in a full length sizing die, but they rarely blow things up. That is left to the much more dangerous guy who has been hand loading for 30 years.

Crimping and belling are tough issues for beginners because they are so subjective. Both of tasks are based on experience; on being able to feel and see when they are right. It takes time to develop those skills. Luckily, beyond modest functionality issues, there is a great latitude in how these tasks are done before real problems occur. (See our blog “What went wrong” which has some good tips on crimping).

Hand loading is like golf: The results get better over time, but the hand loader never stops perfecting their skills.

Rob Kay writes about firearms and is the author of How to Buy an AK-47.

Photos and illustrations courtesy of Western Powders

Questions?  Comments?  Contact us at ontargethawaii@gmail.com

I had never been a Glock enthusiast but my interest was piqued around the new G40 Gen 4 MOS for a couple of reasons. First off, the new MOS (Modular Optic System) platform, which allows you to easily mount a red dot optic on the slide, is a great asset. It features four styles of base plates that will accommodate popular red dots from manufacturers such as EOTech, Docter, Insight, Meopta, Trijicon, C-More, and Leupold.

I was particularly drawn to the (10mm) G40 for another reason–its ballistics. The 10mm Auto round has similar, flat shooting characteristics as the.41 Magnum and the .357 magnum. These rounds allow you to hit targets extremely accurately at 100+ yards.

How accurate? A .41 or .357 (with at least a 6” barrel) can consistently hit an 8” metal gong at 100 yards. This is not easy with iron sights but it’s certainly more do-able with a red dot optic.

Theoretically, you should be able to do the same thing with the optic-mounted, 10mm G40. At least, that was the genesis for this story.

The G40 model also appealed to me because it has a 6” barrel which is certainly long enough to provide the velocity you need to whack a small object at a long distance. Priced at a street price of around $700, the G40 is not “cheap” but it’s less expensive than just about any 6”, 10 mm handgun out there.

So how in fact could you accurize a stock G40 without having to go to a gunsmith?

After consulting with my Glock guru, Brian Takaba of X-Ring Security in Honolulu, I elected to make a couple of straight forward modifications.

I replaced the stock barrel with one from Lone Wolf Distributors and the fire control group with a ZEV Technologies Fulcrum Trigger. For better handling, I added Talon Gun Grips which I was recently introduced to at the SHOT Show.

Dropping in a precision trigger

As has been said since time memorial, the trigger is perhaps the most crucial component in the search for accuracy. Stock Glock triggers always make the gun go “bang” but are not the first choice for long range accuracy.

Why do I say this?

First and foremost, they are a striker-fired design. Striker fired pistols have some tactical and design advantages over the older hammer fired system. There have less moving parts and no external hammer, allowing for a more snag-free layout when it comes to concealed carry.

This design also guarantees consistent trigger pull. That means every shot, from the first through the final round of the magazine, will have the same pull weight. The main drawback with the striker design, and the stock Glock in particular vs. a hammer fired gun is that it has a long, mushy pull. It’s much harder (at least for me) to predict the break. This makes it inherently more difficult to master for pinpoint accuracy.

Don’t believe me?

Try firing any decent 1911 or a stock Smith & Wesson or Colt revolver. The crisp trigger break afforded in single action allows a marksman to place a shot just about anywhere under 50 yards. You simply can’t do that with a striker fired gun. (At least I can’t).

In fact, there’s a whole cottage industry devoted to third party Glock triggers designed to supersede the stock versions. Are they as good as a tricked out 1911? No, they don’t approach that level but they are an order of magnitude better than a box stock Glock.

For this reason I acquired a Fulcrum Ultimate Kit from ZEV. (See photo at the top of this page).

ZEV Technologies

Recognized for its quality aftermarket Glock parts, ZEV Technologies was founded in 2008 by Alec Wolf. They manufacture a wide variety of items with the exception of recoil springs, Night sights and the frame. A custom gun built by ZEV was used by Team Glock’s KC Eusebio to win high overall at the Steel World Speed Shooting Championship in 2012.

Manufactured with 6061 aircraft grade T6 aluminum the ZEV kit has a number of improvements over the stock fire control group. One of the biggest enhancements is its wide range of adjustable trigger features. You can fine-tune the pull weight to as low as 3 lbs as well as tweak the pre-travel and over-travel.

There are other design elements.

The trigger face is flatter and the trigger safety is three times wider than a stock trigger. ZEV says this is helps place your finger in the optimal firing position and build muscle memory to promote consistency and accuracy. The Kit also has a polished, “skeletonized” firing pin, which is lighter than the stock version and has an extended tip for more for a more positive primer ignition.

There is a disclaimer on the instructions that the trigger should be installed by a Glock Armorer but I suspect this is more for insurance purposes. There is a well-written, well-illustrated installation manual that even a non Glock Armorer (like me) can follow. ZEV also has some excellent installation videos. To install the trigger all you need is a 3/32nd punch. (The trigger kit comes also with a couple of minuscule Allen head wrenches to regulate trigger pre-travel and over-travel but that is an elective option).

Lone Wolf Barrel

There are a host of third party barrels out there. There’s certainly nothing wrong with the stock Glock barrel. In fact it’s quite good. However, one can expand one’s ammo choices with an aftermarket product and theoretically improve accuracy. The hexagonal rifling found on a stock Glock barrel is not designed for cast lead bullets, which are the choice for many target aficionados, especially those who shoot silhouette competition. Glock’s hexagonal rifling causes a lead build up which is less than optimal.

The rifling on barrels from Stormlake, KKM, Lone Wolf, and other manufacturers allow you to shoot cast bullets.

By definition, aftermarket barrels offer higher tolerances and more accuracy. At least that’s the theory. Another advantage is that aftermarket Glock barrels, which sport fully supported chambers, are less apt to mutilate the brass. For reloaders, this is no small issue. Less adulterated brass means a case will live another day as a reload.

Installing a barrel is an easy upgrade for even the beginner to accomplish. You simply field strip the gun and swap out the old with the new. If you can clean your Glock you can install a barrel.

Lone Wolf

The next most important component for accuracy is the barrel.

Prices for 10mm Glock aftermarket barrels range between $150 – $300. I decided to go the Lone Wolf option. (LWD) is well known to Glock enthusiasts for high quality upgrades and custom components. Founded in 1998 by JR Shepard, the company caters to the “every man” looking to trick out their Glock. Their barrels are standard cut rifling, allowing one to shoot cast-bullet reloads safely, without gumming up the works. They produce nearly 200 different barrels for the Glock lineup including different styles such as ported, threaded, conversion, long, etc that Glock doesn’t even offer in their OEM lineup.

The 10mm barrel, according to LWD’s Marketing Manager Zack Carlson, hesitated to call any of their offerings “match” grade but said their 10mm designs have a tighter chamber and more case support than the stock versions. Lone Wolf barrels are the least expensive of the third party offerings and are manufactured by Dasan Machineries Company, a Korean concern.

The Proof is in the Shooting

I took my accurized G40 to the Kokohead rifle range here in Hawaii where we’re allowed to shoot our (optic mounted) handguns at slightly more than 100 yards. I mounted a paper target at 50 yards and a 14” gong from CMP at about 105 yards. I got a very respectable grouping at 50 (meaning I could keep my most of my bullets in the black) and then concentrated my efforts at hitting the gong.

I was very pleased with the ZEV trigger system, which was a qualitative improvement over the stock trigger. Based on my experience with the stock trigger, it would have been difficult to get the grouping at 50 yards that is posted in the photo below. (Street price for the Fulcrum Trigger kit is around $255).

However, consistently hitting the 14” gong proved to be a helluva lot more difficult than I had originally expected. In other words I came out of this review, quite humbled. I tried a several different handloads that didn’t help my cause. The best results came from factory ammo from Sig Sauer Elite Performance 180 gr FMJ ammo.

At our range we’re allowed no more than 5 rounds per magazine and I averaged about two shots out of five or a 40% hit rate. My best was 3 out of five. Could I improve on this with practice? No question.

However, shooting a 14” gong with a target revolver at 100 yards with a target revolver is no great shakes. In fact, with the right revolver (in my case a Freedom Arms Model 83 with a 7.5″ barrel) you can hit an 8” gong at 100 yards with regularity.

I think it’s asking too much to turn a Glock, even with a great aftermarket trigger, barrel and grips into a competitive (100+ yard), silhouette shooting, tack driver. That said, I think it’s fair to say for an extra $380 (including the grips) I coaxed a great deal more accuracy out of the G40 than a box stock model.

I also believe with the proper hand load, I could tighten up the groups even more.

Camp Perry Competitors can relax. Feral hogs and bad guys, take note.

Rob Kay writes about firearms and is the author of How to Buy an AK-47.

Photos by Rob Kay

Questions?  Comments?  Contact us at ontargethawaii@gmail.com